Sergei Sviatchenko’s view on Coats – Free & Easy Magazine . 3/3

Det er blevet tid til 3. og sidste del af Sergei Sviatchenkos inspirerende interview med Free & Easy Magazine. I denne omgang skal vi se nærmere på Danmarks Unikke Stilikons inspirationskilder i forbindelse med den klassiske herrefrakke . Sergei har i den forbindelse udvalgt en række billeder, der alle har en speciel betydning og en dertilhørende lille anekdote. God læselyst!

English version 
It is time for the third and final part of Sergei Sviatchenkos inspiring interview with the Free & Easy Magazine. This time we take a closer look on his sources of inspiration i connection with the classic mens coat. Sergei has selected a number of images, which all possess a little stylish anecdote 
Could you give us your comment for each picture from your archive attached? Why did you pick them and how do you like them? We’d like to have your thoughts from you point of view (no need to check the titles of the books or the names of the magazine you picked).

1. The picture is a good example of elegant coolness: the tie, the shirts collar – everything I like about this period of time. Jack Lemmon brings so much thoughtfulness into this picture, the feeling when everything matters, everything is important. You see a person, not a coat.
2. Cary Grant for Aquascutum – the image took me by surprise. In my world Aquascutum doesn’t need advertising; the coats they made are so perfect in colors, quality of fabrics and details. But then I realized that the picture was taken in the 50s. 

3. The picture itself is great, the symmetry of it and humor. It was taken at the time when John Lennon did not take himself too seriously, his behavior was full of playfulness of the person in the circumstances unknown, but not unpleasant. I like the size of the coat too – a little too big – but creates a nice proportion between the collars of the coat and the shirt.

4. This picture is a good example, when a coat is a “cover”, especially  “the soutein collar coat” works here as an elegant shield. The focus stays on the face of a man..

5. I like the comaradery of this image and the spirit of friendship. Dennis Hooper took this picture in NY at the time, when people were about to discover henry geldzahler, Andy Warhol and David Hockney and their impact on the art world. 

6. This picture is actually quite an opposite of my statement about non-coordination between “the southern collar coat” and outdoors activities, but I was taken by naturalness of the process.
And it is probably  the exception that proves the rule.

7. I think Jean Paul Belmondo on this picture wears Aquascutum coat. There was a period in the 60s, when Aquascutum made coats for some Italian or French fashion houses. I see some samples in the vintage shops from time to time and variety is astonishing, probably because of the  personal preference of the buyers or maybe because back than people were buying coat for life.

8. The picture is from the move, but I wish it was from the street today. I have to say I missed  the elegance and aesthetic in fashion for a while, but I noticed it is back. 

Sergei Sviatchenko’s view on Coats – Free & Easy Magazine . 2/3

Det er blevet tid til 2. del af Sergei Sviatchenkos inspirerende, spændende og eksklusive interview med Free & Easy Magazine.
Denne del af det lange interview kaster lys over en række frakker, der alle har en speciel betydning for Sergei, og ikke mindst er at finde i Danmarks Unikke Stilikons garderobe.

English version 
It’s time for the second part of the inspiring, fascinating and exclusive interview with Sergei Sviatchenko made by Free & Easy Magazine. 
This part shed light on a range of coats, which all have is possible to find in the wardrobe of the Unique Style Icon of Denmark 
Please explain each coat what point you like and what the special thing for you.
1.Comme des Garçon ( the blue one) – I like the shape of the coat, because it is like a shirt, even sleeves are shirt sleeves, with cuffs. It is made in France. I bought it in London, at second hand shop, but in excellent condition.
2.Burberrys ( The blue one) – this coat is slim and rather long, with  check lining, but very anonymous for a Burberrys coat.

3.Margaret Howell  – real dust coat, no lining, small check. I dream to have it brand new – to enjoy it a little longer.
4.Burberrys ( the olive color) – I like everything about it: the color, the size (rather small) and a fact that it does not have a check lining. I bought it in London, but it has a name of the previous owner and it is written by hieroglyphs. Was he from Asia? 

5.Polo by Ralph Lauren  – this one is with a half lining and one color throughout. It has a suede feeling when you touch it, very pleasant to wear. 
6.Martin Margiela –  it had four sleeves when I bought it. It was like a sculpture. As two trench coats united in one. After a while I took ” one coat ” away – it is wearable now.
7.DAKS Simpson London Tailored Made in Great Britain – I bought it at the second hand store – it is so Sherlock Holmes. 

Sergei Sviatchenko’s view on Coats – Free & Easy Magazine . 1/3

Sergei Sviatchenko har for længst manifesteret sin position som stilikon på den Japanske modescene. Derfor er Danmarks unikke stilikon endnu en gang at finde i Japans dominerende herremodemagasin Free & Easy – et magasin, der med stor passion og kærlighed hylder den Ivy League inspirerede stil, og Sergei Sviatchenkos Classic Modernism.

Igen har PreppyBeast eksklusivt fået fingrene i Free & Easys fyldestgørende og engelsksprogede interview og billedeserie med Sergei Sviatchenko, der igennem 3 dele vil blive præsenteret i løbet af de kommende juledage på bloggen.
Hovedtemaet i Free & Easys decemberudgave er den klassiske herrefrakke – en frakke som Sergei Sviatchenko har stor viden om, og passion for! Derfor blev han i forbindelse med udarbejdelsen af magasinets decemberudgave bl.a. bedt om at kommentere-og give sit syn på herrefrakken, dens betydning, dens historie og sammensætningsmuligheder, der som første del vil blive præsenteret nedenfor. 
De kommende to dele fra magasinets store og interessante artikel vil omhandle Sergeis personlige holdning til en række herrefrakker fra dominerende og interessante brands, samt en præsentation af en række mænd, der alle har været inspirationskilder til Sergeis unikke stil, og måden hvorpå han idag bærer sine herrefrakker.
English version

Sergei Sviatchenko has for long manifested his position as style icon on the Japanese fashion scene. Therefore the style icon of Denmark is represented in another issue of the great Japanese fashion magazine, Free & Easy – a magazine that with great passion celebrates the Ivy League style and Classic Modernism.
Once again PreppyBeast exclusively has got the opportunity to introduce you to an english version of the great interview and the photo session with Sergei. Through 3 parts, the interview will be published during the upcoming Christmas days on the blog.
The main theme of the Free & Easy December issue is the classic mens coat – a coat that Sergei has great knowledge and passion for.
Therefore Sergei was asked to give his view on the coat, its importance and its history, which will be presented in below. The two next sections of the great and interesting article from Free & Easy are dealing with Sergeis personal opinion and view on a range of men’s coats from dominant and interesting brands, as well as a presentation of a number of men, who all have been sources of inspiration for Sergeis unique style and the way he wear his mens coats.
Happy reading 


1. In Japan we call this type of coat “the stand fall coat” or “the soutien collar coat”. In US people call it one of the “trench coats” or same kind of coat from the Mackintosh rain coat. It seems no certain name. From your point of view how do you interpret, categorize and call it? According to another theory, it is called “the Balmacaan Coat” named after the area in Scotland.  
Thank you for letting me to broaden my knowledge about this particular type of coats – what I like about it is a possibility to change the silhouette just by closing one button. With the closed button the shape is squarer, with open – more slim. For me personally this type of coat is definitely “trench” consider how many times I wear it on the way to the meeting where I “fight” for my ideas. Where I came from – place and time (Soviet Union in 70s) we called it “raglan” because of sleeves model. 

2. We think it was well worn especially after 1940s in US. Do you think it was popular in east coast of US? Also about Europe? Please let us know as far as you know.
Exactly, the politicians, the artists, the musicians, it had been worn by many, where the weather allow it. 

3. What represents “the soutien collar coat” for you?
A nice feeling of heritage and belonging, because I remember my father wearing the “raglan” as we called it. I even have a picture of him and my future father in law standing so elegantly, both in 
“raglans” and now my son borrows one of mine coats. He wears it more casually.

4. What point usually do you care about, when you are wearing “the soutien collar coat”?
    (Sizing, fabric, material, shape….please explain it as much as possible)
I like them small and it means short too. With raglan sleeves it is not a problem to have a jacket inside the coat and by button up the silhouette becomes square and warm too. Fabric matters for the purpose of warmth; my coats are as different as the thinnest kind of dust coat to the woolen winter model. 

5. Who is the iconic man wearing “the soutien collar coat” for you (actor, movie, historical figure)?

    How is he wearing it? How can you admire it?
Alan Delon was wearing it so natural, but still mysterious. We watched a lot of French movies in 70-80s, sometimes he played a good guy, sometimes a bad guy, but it did a little difference for the fascination by his character. The plainness of coat was in contrast to the expression on his face.
Another example of ” neutrality ” or “unification”of “the southern collar coat”  is a situation, when men of the different generations wear it.  Take a college graduate with his cravings for life and energy to explore it, or a young father taking his kid for a walk in the park or a man of 60+, waiting for his wife in front of the museum. They all look different in their southern collar coats, and it is not a variety in stains I think about  – big smile here. They are on a different stages of life, doing what is the best for them at the moment, all united by a great timeless shape of the coat they choose, as a kind of a quality  gene. 

6. For us it reminds us of the actor, Peter Falk from the well-known detective mystery TV series “Columbo”. It tells that the coat should be for the man with strong attitude. How do you think about it?
The strong attitude can be a negative kind, remember the Soviet leaders after the Second World War – all wearing   “the soutien collar coat” – long and wide, making them look strong, anonymous and unfriendly.

7. Regarding total coordination how do you pick and dress the outfit matching with “the soutien collar coat”?
The only thing you shall consider is the heaviness of the fabric of the coat. White coat for the sunny weather and the woolen is for the winter period. Personally I do not like this coat over any clothes considered for sports. 
Regarding the question about your coordinate, you mentioned “Personally I do not like this coat over any clothes considered for sports.” we would like to know why you think so with more details. That sounds like a key of your style, we guess.
I am an artist, therefor let me paint “a picture”: the weather is sharp cold and sunny, the lake in front of you have been frozen safely for many weeks, you bind your skating shoes and in a second you are skating, lungs full of fresh air….. Would you wear a “the soutien collar coat??
I appreciate the importance of being feet and eating healthy, no doubt about that, but some of the clothing items belong to the gym and have to stay there.  

I am not going to say that this occupy my thoughts when I am taking my clothes on.
The best thing in life is to be true to yourself, sometimes it is difficult, but not impossible. 

Sergei Sviatchenko for AN IVY

I forbindelse med lanceringen af AN IVY har vi været så priviligerede, at Danmarks Unikke Stilikon, Sergei Sviatchenko har vist sin støtte til projektet. I første omgang har Sergei på kreativ vis iklædt sig hele AN IVYs første kollektion. Skal du have fat i ét slips eller flere slips derfra, kan du trykke lige her.

Inspireret af den amerikanske ivy league stil og tradition, grundlagde vi det danske brand AN IVY i København i foråret 2013. 
AN IVYs designfilosofi er baseret på vores store passion for klassisk herreekviperring, hvor slipset altid har udgjort en væsentlig rolle. Vi mener at slipset fortsat bør være en essentiel accessorie i enhver herregarderobe. Derfor lægger vi stor vægt på at være trendsættende og kreative i vores designprocess, for at kunne levere innovative slips med et klassisk twist, der skal have relevans for alle stilarter i herremoden.. På samme tid er det vores mål altid at udbyde slips af høj kvalitet, i et eksklusivt oplag, men til rimelige priser. 

Med et slips fra AN IVY vil du altid føle dig velklædt! 
English version
For the lauch of AN IVY, we have been so privileged, that the Unique Style Icon of Denmark, Sergei Sviatchenko has shown his support for the brand. Initially, Sergei creatively has dressed up in the entire collection of AN IVY ties. You can shop the collection right here.
Inspired by the classic ivy league preppy style, AN IVY was founded on a sunny day in Copenhagen, 2013.
The design philosophy of AN IVY is based on our huge passion for classic and contemporary ties, which we mean are essential accessories for every man around the world. Our goal is to be creative in our design process and supply innovative ties with relevance for all styles in mens fashion. 
At the same time, it is our goal always to provide ties in high quality, in limited edition, to reasonable prices. 

“Dad’s Style”

I den japanske modeverden er de vilde med Sergei Sviatchenkos stil! Faktisk er de så vilde med ham, at han endnu en gang tager del i et omspændende interview med dertilhørende yderst inspirerende billedeserie i det japanske modemagasin “Free&Easy”.
Seneste projekt på det japanske modemagasin går under navnet “dad’s style”. Redaktøren på magasinet beskriver “dad’s” som style masters, og det er derfor ingen overraskelse at Sviatchenko igen optræder i magasinet.  
Igennem interviewet og ikke mindst billedeserien bliver vi introduceret for en kavalkade af stilfulde “rugged ivy” items, der alle er en del af Sviatchenkos garderobe. Kavalkaden og indblikket i garderoben kategoriserer uden tvivl Sviatchenko iblandt de bedst klædte mænd i verden! 
Selv karakteriserer Sviatchenko sin stil som moderne klassicisme, hvor ivy beklædningsgenstandende gør det nemt at ‘dresse’ rugged ivy. 
I samarbejde med netop Sergei Sviatchenko har PreppyBeast igen fået muligheden for, som de første, at publicere Sviatchenkos interview med “Free&Easy” på engelsk som du kan læse nedenfor, hvor du ligeledes skal lade dig inspirere af alle de fine items fra garderoben, der efter min mening er verdens absolut mest stilfulde. 
Husk også at tune ind på Sergei Sviatchenkos tidligere optrædener i “Free&Easy” magasinet lige her: 

English version 
The japanese fashion world loves Sergei Sviatchenkos style. Actually they are so crazy about it, that he once again takes part in a comprehensive interview with a related gallery in the japanese fashion magazine “Free&Easy”. 
Latest project on the japanese fashion magazine is called “dad’s style”. The editor of the magazine describes “dad’s” as masters of style, and therefore it is no surprise that Sergei Sviatchenko appears in the magazine once again. 
Through the interview and the gallery we are introduced to a cavalcade of stylish “rugged ivy” items, which are a part of Sergei Sviatchenkos wardrobe.
The look into his wardrobe categorizes undoubtedly Sergei Sviatchenko among the worlds best dressed men. 
Sviatchenko charaterizes his style as modern classicist, where the ivy clothes makes it easy to dress rugged ivy!
In collaboration with Sergei Sviatchenko, PreppyBeast has been given the opportunity to be the first to publish his interview with “Free&Easy” magazine in english. You can read the interview below. 
At the same time be inspired by all the stylish items in the gallery, that comes from the finest wardrobe in the world according to my opinion.  
Remember to tune in to Sergei Sviatchenko previous appearances in “Free & Easy” magazine right here.
From the editor:
We would like to interview you for the next issue as “Dad’s Style” which is our one of the most popular projects.  It features stylish people with the “rugged ivy” style in US, EU and Japan with their own outfits and their wardrobes as 6 pages each person.
Here in Japan and Free&Easy  we call stylish men “dads” It’s Japanese English, I think. Of course the man in certain age will have kids and we can call them dads. More likely we like to express the men like as style masters as “dads.”
How do you describe your style?
As a shelf in a wooden wardrobe: the items of clothing lying there bought at the different periods of time and mood.  Actually, as a reflection who am I today. A few things are classical; a few are so nice in quality, It did not matter if they belonged to any style; a few  are new and promising. I think it is a style of a modern classicist.

How do you enjoy dressing rugged ivy for fall/winter?
When it is fall/winter, especially here in Denmark, it means you have a possibility to upgrade the layers of your outfit, depending on weather condition, and when the clothes are IVY , dressing easily becomes RUGGED IVY. 
 Did you have any style inspirations, when you made whole outfits for the portraits? (movies, music, books, friends, sports..)
It is more like autopilot mode, having seen what I see, reading what I read and listening what I listen. And now it is ?Van Diemen´s Land? by Jonathan auf der Heide, ?I Celebrate Myself? by Bill Morgan and  ? Hey-hey-hey-hey!? The Swinging Blue Jeans live in ?Cascade Beat Club? in Cologne (1964)
Please let me know your recent news.
I participate in Faceless, at freiraum quartier 21 INTERNATIONAL/Museums Quartier Wien and later in Amsterdam. In October I got ?artist-in-residence?  in  Museums Quartier Wien to work  on InsideOutside project; we work on a next issue of Close Up And Private.
From when did you start dressing ivy?
Honestly, I did not know it was Ivy that time. I dressed like my favorite architects while studying architecture : Frank Lloyd Wright, Philip Johnson, Walter Gropius, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Le Corbusier. I realize now  – some of them were Ivy students.
But the trigger into dressing were probably rock bands in 60s. Their frivolant using of classical items of clothing  impressed me then and now. And a little later I learned the influence of Miles Davis and Dexter Gordon not only in music, but also in The Ivy Look.
How did you lean to dress ivy??
Ivy is the most natural type of wear. My grandfather had a heavy wool jacket, my father had tweed jacket, I wear one very often, my sons do. And it is true with many different items of Ivy. It is a nice feeling of tradition and eternity.
How do you use and how do you like your private rooms?
Comfort and colors.
How do you use and how do you like your working space (office and atelier)?
Comfortable, light, tidy
How do you use and how do you like your bicycle?
Denmark is a bicycle country, you can bike everywhere; take it in the train or bus. I like my bicycle Sogreni,( here is a lot of information about it) I bought mine for 15 years ago, they made it by my size, I could choose the color. I like it for it non sporty look.
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